The 7000CJ is our largest Made in Italy, manual fill unit with a 9L boiler tank, 4.5 bar pressure, 105C steam temperature, and all stainless steel construction. It features 4 safety systems, a blowdown valve to help maintain its life and performance, and a heavy-duty contactor switch, and an adjustable nozzle and foot pedal controller. With the 7000CJ you can also add our optional (#1300IA) water feed valve. The 7000CJ is for those that demand the very best performance and need the extra water capacity.
The standout feature of this line is the automatic steam wand. Creatista Plus comes equipped with a swivel frothing arm and temperature sensor to precisely froth milk. You place the milk pitcher on the temperature sensor under the frothing wand, and the machine will do the frothing. No need to fumble with the pitcher and the Creatista has 11 settings for any texture you desire.
Temperature Gauge Pro 2.37
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After I found back their business card, I emailed them questioning how they did that and the answer was very, very easy, yet extremely good... They used an Arduino mini in between the carriage and the processor board. The Arduino could be set to divide the measured temperature of the hot-end by two, or not, all with a simple push of a button. So in fact, the Nylon was running on 260C with the printer thinking it was 130C.
A small P.S.:In my opinion, just dividing by 2 isn't the way to go. I think you should build a table of given output values to the motherboard, knowing what temeratures this realy are on the hot end. I even think I will make my temperature configurable with a potentiometer and readable on a separate display to have full control.
I built one of my replacement hot end cartridges. I built it using an E3D V6 hot end kit and one of my custom hot end PCBs. The difference is that this time I put a 100 ohm resistor in line with the the thermistor. This means as far as the printer's electronics are concerned the thermistor's resistance is always 100 ohms higher than it actually is. This results in the printer thinking the hot end temperature is lower than it actually is.
Since the E3D V6 kit uses their cartridge thermistor which is actually a Semitec 104GT thermistor I used the temperature/resistance table from here and extrapolated some numbers to develop the following requested/actual printing temperature cross-reference for my special hot end cartridge. The numbers here are probably not 100% accurate for my setup, but they should be close enough to work with.
After getting the hot end cartridge ready to go I wanted to do a test print with ABS to be sure things were working well. The ABS I use I normally print at 236C, so this time I selected 216C as the printing temperature. The print turned out great.
I moved on to Taulman Alloy 910 which I had recently done a few prints with on another 3D printer I have. On the other printer I printed the Alloy 910 at 252C so for my da Vinci Pro test I chose 226C as my printing temperature. I stopped the print about 13mm in because I was happy with the result and wanted to move on. The print turned out quite well. Layer adhesion is great. There was some warping at the corners, but I was using no brim and no special prep on my UltraLex print surface.
I am even thinking of a way to put the table in an Arduino, then I can make a better readout on a separate display. Just have to find a way to get the temperature readout from the machine. (it's on the serial data, so this must be possible).
Not sure if this will be helpful or if I just spent almost three hours doing this for fun this evening, but I took a couple of multi-meters, a trim potentiometer (plus several resistors for better resolution), a breadboard and various leads to my printer and used the potentiometer and resistors in place of the thermistor and used MONITOR MODE to see what temperature the printer thought the nozzle was at.
Methodology: With the potentiometer hooked up in place of the thermistor I would adjust the resistance until a certain temperature was displayed on the LCD. I would record the temperature displayed and the voltage across the resistance. I would them disconnect the potentiometer(and any resistor I put in parallel for resolution) from the printer and voltmeter and measure the resistance with the 2nd multimeter. To save myself time I only recorded every 5 degrees until I got to 200 when I started recording for each degree change.
I found it very odd that the temperature reading jumped from 256 to 265, but I guess that has something to do with whatever the thermistor table in the firmware is. I tried several times to get a reading between the two, but as you can see from the data there is only a 4 ohm change in resistance between 256C and 265C.
Wauw, Thanks a lot. That is a complete list we can work with.It's a bit odd indeed that the temperature goes from 256 to 265 with only 4 ohms of difference.Anyhow, this list gives great insight in how to set the temperature to a value we would like the printer to think the nozzle is.
I believe the reason that there are four wires for the heater is because the wire gauge used is not enough for the current demand of the heater. By using two wires for the positive side and two for the negative side they double the current carrying capacity of the circuit.
The heater should be connected between red and green wires, and you should use both red and both green wires or you risk melting a wire from an over-current situation. If you tried to connect the heater between the red and black wires the heater would have a constant 12V. and the printer would have no way of controlling the hot end temperature. You would almost certainly cause some sort of melt down in your printer.
Correct, if both sides of the heater cartridge are at 12V then no current flows through the heater. To heat the printer will pulse the green side to a ground/low signal causing current to flow through the heater cartridge in a series of very fast pulses. As the hot end reaches your desired temperature the pulses slow down and turn on/off periodically to maintain your set temperature.
I have to set up my own way of heating the bed and hot end and my own way of measuring the temperature of both. When they have reached the desired temperature, my Arduino will fake the heating towards the motherboard and printing will start. Now it will also be possible to lower the temperature of the bed manually when heating is no longer needed.
Different thermistors have different temperature gradients. If you use marlin firmware, it has built in a list of thermistor types and the associated value given per temperature. for example two different companies thermistors, both rated at 100k will return different resistance values when exposed to the exact same temperature. When an Arduino running marlin (or repetier) firmware reads the value of the thermistor, it has to know what kind it is or your temp reading will be off.
One thing tough, The stock hot end of the Da Vinci Pro is not made to reach a temperature that goes above 240C. In fact, the innerliner tube in the hot end can melt when you go above that temperature. I strongly advise people that want to set a temperature above 240C to use another hot end, like an E3Dv6 or something like that.
Great to know thanks for sharing.Im in complete agreement making the temperature configurable and readable on a separate display to have full control definitely would seem the way to go.Let me know if you get it right sounds like a mod id like to apply to my own pro 2ff7e9595c
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